When I first began to design I was more than a little skeptical about modeling my own designs because I am not a perfect (or even a small size). In the few years that I have been producing designs, I have been surprisingly overwhelmed and touched by the feedback I have received from those of you who are happy to see my designs on someone who has some of the same body issues that you do. That has been incredibly empowering and encouraging to me personally so I wanted to take the opportunity to give some of that back to you.

Obviously I don’t know all the secrets but I have a pretty good idea of what works for me. So if you are:  busty, short-waisted, have a curvy hourglass (even a larger one) figure with bust and hips relatively in proportion with a smaller waist, and are short in stature but not petite, you might want to pay attention. Maybe some of my tricks will work for you too.

When I’m looking to design something with myself in mind here are a few of the guidelines I like to follow:

Because I’m busty necklines are super important to me! I like v-necks especially, but U-necks, square necks and scoop necks are good too. Showing some of the skin from your chin to your bust breaks up the line and makes your bust seem shapely and not overabundant. I personally don’t mind cleavage, but when I don’t think it’s appropriate I happily layer that deep v neck sweater over a pretty camisole or tank to make it suit the occasion. Something with a pretty top layer that will be attractive peeking out from behind your knitted item. If I want to play up my cleavage nothing does the trick like a wrap (surplice) top.

Because I am fairly well proportioned in bust and hips I like shaping in a sweater which will allude to an hourglass figure (though my glass is much wider these days than it used to be). I like to mirror and emphasize my curves rather than hide them underneath baggy unflattering sweaters. Also I avoid boxy shapes on top like the plague because they make me look like a linebacker, and empire shapes that make me look radiantly pregnant.

Because I am short-waisted it is important to me that I knit my sweaters to just the right length. I like a sweater to end at or just shy of my hips so it helps to camoflage the tummy that I still haven’t managed to lose after two c-sections.

I have enough going on on top that I prefer designs that are simple with elegant details that focus on yarn choice rather than busy allover patterns or fussy details that add bulk and interest to my top half. The designs I personally prefer most feature a good portion of stockinette stitch with accent detailing in less critical areas like sleeves, hems, and necklines. Sweaters certainly don’t have to be plain vanilla, but if they are splurge on a really luxurious yarn that will make the sweater something special.

I love handpainted yarns in busy colorways but I save them for accents, accessories and socks. I prefer monochromatic handpainted yarns and semi-solids if I’m working on a garment. They add visual interest without making my bust overpowering in the way that a busy colorway would.  I also admit that I’m a big proponent of monochromatic dressing from head to toe. It gives me a cleaner line and makes me feel elegant.

I don’t shy away from color just because I am not a size 6. I love basic black as much as the next girl (and own an alarming amount of that and many other neutrals), but color is so much fun and portrays confidence. It’s important to remember that attitude is half the battle. Red is of course my favorite. If you are color shy, test the waters with muted and toned down colors that won’t make you feel like a blinking stop light, at least until you become used to them.

Layering is a technique I employ since it seems to break up my middle which is where I seem to carry most of my extra weight since having my kids. That said, I cannot have, buy, knit or design enough jackets, and cardigans. I love them, and layering them over different tanks, camis, tees etc, adds versatility to my wardrobe. Sometimes I like the matchy-matchy look of a twinset, but contrasting colors and subtle prints is my norm. I do try to go for fitted pieces with nipped in waist shaping and bust shaping.

Also layering doesn’t have to be confined just to jackets and so forth. A tank when worn alone that might make you uncomfortable because of not so firm upper arms can be transformed with the addition of a great shawl or wrap (lots of opportunity for you lace knitters I think!) and a gorgeous shawl pin or vintage brooch.

I like to knit things for myself mostly in worsted and dk weights. They work best for my climate and are more slimming to my figure. I do occasionally cave (Case in point:Terra) and knit something in a bulky yarn, but it HAS to have shaping and I am more likely to wear it layered over a light piece for running around town.

I prefer to knit everything in the size closest to my actual bust measurement and I avoid wearing anything too tight or too loose, both of which make me seem bigger. Also I have a disturbingly negative opinion of suggested ease. How can any designer really tell you how much ease you should choose without knowing your build? You are after all the best source of info about your own body, right? I know it is often commented on when ease is not suggested in a pattern, and I have suggested ease before, but I don’t really like to. I consider it a very personal matter because it is something that may change with each person’s shape. This is why most of my patterns suggest choosing the pattern closest to your bust measurement as a place to start.

At 31years old I like classic pieces that never really go out of style but I am young enough (and I’m referring more to my attitude and sense of self here than my age number which I think counts for naught) to have fun with some trendy pieces. I hate hearing women say they are too old or too fat to wear something. I guess string bikinis and hot pants aside, there is usually a way for even an older or larger women to incorporate a trendy piece successfully if she does so with taste and a clear idea of her personal style. There are no rules after all and we are only as young as we feel.

See also:

Finding what works -The problem as I see it…
Dishing on my personal opinion and must have for knits that work for my shape.

Stay tuned for:

Finding what works -What will work for you…
Compiling a list of what works for different body issues.

This 3 part post will be added to the Tips section for future reference and I will be addiing any good tips provided by readers (through email, contact, or comments) to the compiled list. If you have any great insight as to what works on your particular body issue I’d love to hear it.